It has been a while since I had a Beaujolais; all of the recent Nouveau-inspired events reminded me how real Beaujolais is still underappreciated. But when you live by the Nouveau, you die by the Nouveau. Real Beaujolais are some of the most charming, drinkable, and pleasurable wines in the world. Nothing reminded more of this than the 2006 Domaine du Vissoux Cuvee Traditionnelle Vielles Vignes. It’s not cheap; it’s 18 bucks. But I think it is fairly priced to drink a wine of such purity and pleasure; it’s like finding a really great Pinot Noir crossed with a fresh Grenache. Maybe that does not do justice to Gamay; it is a grape that deserves to have others compared to it!