White Port and Pear Conserve: I Learn to Preserve

Posted on: April 18th, 2013 by Jameson

White Port and Pear ConserveHey, wine is for more than just drinking. (Whoa.) For example, have you ever had a White Port and Pear Conserve? (Recipe at the bottom of this post.) Me neither! Fortunately, I am friends with, and live within walking distance from, Brook Hurst Stephens. You may know her from her charming and enthusiastic blog, Learn To Preserve; she’s also a Certified Master Food Preserver. And she was gracious enough to open her doors for taping an episode of my podcast, Wine Without Worry, dedicated to the topic of preserving with wine.

I knew Brook was a pro; see how she had all the ingredients laid out? And I was touched that she added a blood orange, my favorite fruit, into the citrus mix. With Brook ably in charge as the recipe guru, I had to do something to impress her. How about an easy wine-based cocktail? I love that Brook chose white Port for our canning exercise, as it is the main component in one of the most underrated refreshing drinks in the world. And you don’t have to be a mixologist to make it. Plus, no muddling.

Just fill a glass with ice, add a couple shots of white Port (the one we used had a touch of sweetness), top with club soda, and add a wedge of lemon or lime. This is how you make a drab Seattle April afternoon feel like July in the tropics.

Between sips, you’ll hear some of the cooking action come through on the podcast: chopping, slicing, and dicing. Which is totally appropriate considering Brook has put together an audio journey called “The Sounds of Preserving“. Have a listen:

“The Sounds of Preserving” from Kabja Concepts on Vimeo.

White Port and Pear ConserveJust as sights and smells can provoke and promote memories, so can sounds. The sound of uncorking a wine reminded me how I met Brook probably eight years ago while working at a wine shop; she was a sales representative for a local distributor and the shop was one of her accounts. We discuss how she got into the wine business, and venture further back in time to see how growing up in Wenatchee (“Apple Capital of the World“) nurtured her love for canning and preserving. Brook even owned a bar–which apparently had a fantastic neon sign–in Wenatchee for a spell.

I left Brook’s house with a cute jar of White Port and Pear Conserve, and a vow (preserved on the podcast) to volunteer for unlimited chopping and peeling duty as the pounds and pounds of produce roll in to Learn to Preserve World-Wide HQ. Have a listen to my pledge:

Wine Without Worry Episode 8 on iTunes: Use Wine in the Kitchen to Learn to Preserve

Get Your White Port and Pear Conserve Recipe!

A French Sparkling Rosé That Evokes Emotion

Posted on: April 15th, 2013 by Jameson

Billy Squier - Emotions In MotionHey, did you hear I got nominated for a Saveur Best Food Blog Award? Yes, in the category of Best Wine or Beer Blog! This post was going to be about that exciting news. But certainly a fair number of people who haven’t read my blog before are going to discover it via Saveur. And they would be thinking, “Duh, I already know you’re nominated. That’s how I got here. What a crock!” So to new arrivals, welcome and thank you. Let’s get straight to the wine!

Long-time readers are already well-versed in my penchant for prose concerning sparkling rosé. Not only are they fun to look at as well as fun to drink, but sparkling rosés are some of the most food-loving wines on the planet. Everything from a serious seafood dinner to a leftover fried chicken afternoon picnic are made that much more romantic and/or delightful by a bottle of pink bubbles. Now certainly there are wonderful rosé Champagnes that will give you (and someone else) immense pleasure in the most life-affirming manner possible. But for a less costly alternative in French sparkling rosé, I am extremely fond of the 2010 Antech Cremant de Limoux “Emotion”.

2010 antech cremant de limoux emotion

Lost in Emotion

Down in this part of Southern France, the Limoux region (map), they’ve been making sparkling wine FOREVER.  Like, well before even the Champagne region: try 1531. (PS: Thank the Benedictine monks of Saint Hilaire the next time you enjoy sparkling wine.) A quick perusing of winesearcher.com shows it at an average cost of $12/bottle. Wowzers, that’s fantastic. The 2010 version, which I am currently enjoying, is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Mauzac, and 4% Pinot Noir. But don’t worry about the numbers. Just enjoy this pale, berry-tinged, dry rosé when ever you need a shot of emotion in your world.

saveur best food blog awardsAnd, speaking of emotion (see what I did there?), I certainly ran the gamut of emotions I have known (and not known) possible upon hearing I was nominated for a Saveur Best Food Blog Award. Voting runs until midnight, April 19th. Please vote! (The badge will also send you to the voting arena with a click.)

Other nominees in the category: Alice Feiring, Guys Drinking Beer, The Thirsty Wench, Good Beer Hunting, and Beer Dorks. Happy drinking and voting!

Billy Squier’s Emotion in Motion brought to you by Tim Yates. I deeply regret not being able to find an image with a Creative Commons license for “Lost in Emotion” by Lisa Lisa and Cult Jam, which I much prefer to Billy Squier.

For Spanish White Wine, X Marks The Spot

Posted on: April 11th, 2013 by Jameson

spanish white wineI can’t say that I was familiar with the Spanish white wine grape called Xarel-lo (pronounced “char-el-oh”). I just knew it as one of the three main grapes in Spanish sparking wine (Cava) along with Macabeo and Parellada. Thankfully, while on a trip to Spain sponsored by Segura Viudas, I learned a lot about Xarel-lo and wine in general. I knew they weren’t fooling around when they handed me an accordion file.

spanish white wine

Grand Creu wine?

And this accordion file was chock-full of information about how Segura Viudas makes Cava, from soil to vine to grape to bottle to glass. Phew! But I didn’t expect to drink a still wine made from Xarel-lo, which turned out to be one of the pleasant surprises of the trip. The wine is called Creu de Lavit. Not only is it made from Xarel-lo, but I’d describe it as a “Super Xarel-lo” as it has a lot more richness than you’d expect from a grape that goes into making lively Cavas. No doubt due to some oak-aging and stirring of the lees. (Lees are the leftover grape solids and yeast that are mixed up with the wine in the barrel to add extra texture and flavor.)

But the Creu de Lavit was not my only discovery when it came to Xarel-lo. Segura Viudas also has a vintage-dated Cava, Torre Galimany, made primarily from that X-factor of a grape. And the still Xarel-lo wine that makes its way into the Torre Galimany is barrel-aged as well. So the result is a Cava with extra heft, oomph, and distinction beyond your typical thirst-slaking Cava.

But was confined indoors this entire trip? No way! I got to put down my accordion file to admire some Pinot Noir vineyards:

spanish white wine

Enough with the “Where’s Waldo?” cracks already!

And stroll around Barcelona, checking out La Sagrada Familia:

spanish white wine

We also made a trip to the distinct landscape of Priorat, not too far from Barcelona, to visit the Morlanda Winery. Though Priorat is best know for intensely dense red wines, I pleaded (respectfully) to have a bottle of the Morlanda Blanca unearthed for our lunchtime enjoyment. Primarily Grenache Blanc, with a touch of Macabeo for added freshness, it was a rich and distinct white wine.

spanish white wine

Lunch took place at a  tiny, hidden restaurant (Cal Quel, really just someone’s house) in the town of Bellmunt del Priorat, where I came across this image:

spanish white wine

Finally, in the interests of full disclosure, at Morlanda I demonstrated the classic “I WAS HERE IN THE VINEYARD” pose. I am not immune.

spanish white wine

So when it comes to Spanish white wine, go forth and seek out the unusual and rare. Whether it’s Xarel-lo or Grenache Blanc, your curious and inquisitive spirit will be rewarded.

Slovenian White Wine Makes Happy Hour Happening in New York City

Posted on: April 8th, 2013 by Jameson

slovenian white wine

Dang, I wish I could have enjoyed some Slovenian white wine at Terroir‘s location on the High Line. But I had to settle for imagining white wine while strolling up and down this impressive park in New York City. (View the recap.) Fortuntely Terroir’s East Village location was open for business and I made it in time to enjoy happy hour.

slovenian white wineOf course, this being Terroir, there’s not just one Slovenian white wine on the happy hour menu. Please! Drink the available duo.* First up was the 2011 Vipava Belo from Tilia Estate, a blend of Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc, pictured (poorly). Second, the 2010 Kogl Belo, composed of 50% Riesling, 25% Sauvignon Blanc, and 25% Chardonnay. Both were a refreshing delight and I’d highly recommend them to anyone who likes the white wines of Northern Italy. Of course when you see that Slovenia is just east of Italy’s Friuli region (map), where many exciting white wines are produced, this wine kinship shouldn’t come as a surprise.

If you’re in a wine-drinking rut, New York City, and any of Terroir’s locations in particular, will snap you of your fermented grape juice doldrums. (I also sampled the Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdelho from California. Naturally, to try the new and exciting from California, like this take on a Portuguese white wine, I had to fly all the way to New York. Not bitter, I swear.)

As a bonus, your Slovenian white wine fix arrives packaged in a generous, friend-making, one liter-sized bottle. (Boo, puny 750ml vessels!) So when it comes to indoor or outdoor thirst-quenching, you’d be hard-pressed to find anything more intriguing and shareable.

Envy-generating photo courtesy Daquella manera.

*And don’t be mad at me (or Terroir) if the by-the-glass options have changed. I promise there’s something awesome to drink, and, for the commitment-phobic, you’ll get to try a small taste before you buy.

High Line Park and Gruner Veltliner: Contemplating Time and Space

Posted on: April 3rd, 2013 by Jameson

High Line Park and Gruner Veltliner

While in New York on a trip sponsored by Snooth I took some time to stroll through High Line Park. I can’t recall a more surprising, inspiring, or thoughtful way to spend a leisurely hour before sitting down to taste wine. It’s possibly the coolest city park I’ve visited. You’re lifted up off the ground to not only better enjoy the views, but also to soak in the artistic touches and design of the park. The High Line is ultimate in rails to trails transformation.

I started to think about what wines would be most evocative of this experience, and I got my answer at a seminar (one of many put together by Snooth for myself and a group of fellow bloggers) on Gruner Veltliner conducted by the personable and knowledgeable Aldo Sohm. Not only is he the Chief Sommelier at Le Bernadin and a winner of the Best Sommelier in the World award, but he’s also a winemaker. Naturally, Austrian-born Aldo is making Gruner. And, based on his dynamic presentation, he clearly has a passion for wine, for educating, and for life.

High Line Park and Gruner VeltlinerThe wines ranged from pleasurable to contemplative, much like the gamut of emotion and feeling captured on the High Line that brisk, sunny day. Like a walk through the park, Gruner is a wine that can be fun and refreshing or serious and brooding.

Two of my favorites sampled fit nicely into those bookends. Consulting my prodigious tasting notes, I came across a Gruner I decreed “smokin’ good for $16“, the 2011 Stadlmann. For the intellectually curious seeking something for the cellar, check out the 2010 Schloss Gobelsburg Tradition ($50). And, since flattery will get you everywhere, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the austere, lime-y 2011 Sohm & Kracher ($38). Finally, if you’re looking for an atypical Gruner with a lot of licorice along with extra punch and richness, check out the 2011 Veyder Malberg Kreutles ($30).

Did I say “finally”? I lied. Because I must make special mention of the 2011 Prager Stockkultur ($90). Prager has a special place in my heart, as I was introduced to them back in 2004 while working at Randolph Wine Cellars in Chicago. I had the opportunity to taste (drink) vintages of both Gruner Veltliner and Riesling with a few years of age on them and they took my breath away. I recall one evening in particular at a restaurant in Chicago where, during a multi-course meal of great diversity, technique, and flavor, a Prager Gruner somehow managed to match each dish.

Meet me on the High Line? Don’t forget the Gruner.

Check out other posts from this Snooth tasting by fellow attendees:

Gruner Veltliner: A Delicious Puzzle (Vine Sleuth)

Gruner Love Featuring The Stadlmann Gruner Veltliner 2011 (The Reverse Wine Snob)

Snooth PVA: Wines of Austria (Benito’s Wine Reviews)

So You Think You Know Grüner (Vindulge)

Snooth PVA: Terroir Driven Grüner Veltliners of Austria Create Food Friendly Wines With Distinctive Flavors (Wine Julia)

Snooth PVA: Wines of Austria Master Class (My Vine Spot)

My 2013 Vinous Revelation: Grüner Veltliner  (The V.I.P. Table)

High Line Park and Gruner Veltliner

Getting to Southern Oregon Wine By Way of Pittsburgh

Posted on: April 1st, 2013 by Jameson

southern oregon wine

How much do you know about Southern Oregon Wine? For most people (and myself included), Oregon wine means one grape and one region: Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. But not only are there a great diversity of wines being produced within the Willamette Valley, you can also find many exciting wines made in the more unheralded southern portion of Oregon, stretching all the way down to the California border.

So who better to join me on the Wine Without Worry podcast to explore Southern Oregon wine than…a guy from Pittsburgh? My guest is Clive Pursehouse from the Northwest Wine Anthem. He does explain how he transitioned from a beer and a shot upbringing in Milvalle, PA to unwinding in Seattle with a Gewurztraminer in a Riedel glass. It’s a shame that my podcast lacks video, as Clive is known far and wide (or at least in parts of Seattle’s Magnolia neighborhood) as The Handsome Blogger. (Recognize.) Not only does he stir passions globally on the blogosphere, he also has a passion for the wines of Southern Oregon. Join us as we explore three regions of Southern Oregon wine:

We talk Zinfandel, Syrah, Vermentino, and more. All while drinking a Gewurztraminer from Brandborg. Also discussed is what would happen if Clive returned to his hometown toting a slightly sweet white wine. (Probable ass-kicking). Somehow we weave cyclocross racing into all of this. And Clive reveals how to become a wine writer for a cycling magazine.

And on a serious note, one of Clive’s teammates on his cyclocross team recently suffered a terrible accident. I’ll let Clive explain:

On March 7th my friend and cycling teammate Mark Bender was injured in Hawaii. He was there with his wife Sarah celebrating their 15th anniversary. While bodysurfing Mark suffered a serious spinal injury, he has gone through surgery and at the moment, has very limited feeling and movement in his body. Mark and I raced together in the Master’s Cat 3s in cyclocross and we spent a fair bit of time together this last season warming up and watching his boys and his wife race before our races would begin. (Mark and Sarah have four boys.)  I’m not sure what’s next for Mark and his family, there is a long road ahead for them. They are people of tremendous faith and so I think that, coupled with the toughness that they all exude will hold them in good stead as Mark goes through rehabilitation and recovery. I hope that one day we’ll race together again.

One way you can help is to head to DOMA Coffee and buy their La Bicicletta blend. All the proceeds are going to Mark and his family through the end of April. If there’s one thing I know about wine drinkers, it’s that they enjoy plenty of coffee, too. So go and buy a pound or a dozen.

Wine Without Worry Episode 7 on iTunes: Racing Towards Southern Oregon Wine

Umpqua Valley hills in Roseberg, Oregon. Photo courtesy McD22.

25 Reasons to Drink Pet-Nat

Posted on: March 29th, 2013 by Jameson

pet nat

Visiting Vine Wine in Brooklyn, NY, and seeing my friend Sarah Chappell provided my introduction to the world of Pet-Nat wines. What the heck is a Pet-Nat wine? Well, it’s sparkling. (Hooray! I’m listening with rapt attention.) I’ll let Vine Wine (via their website) explain more:

Pet-Nat is a nickname for petillant naturel, a method of producing sparkling wine by bottling the wine during the the primary, alcoholic fermentation to capture the carbon dioxide that is naturally released. This differs from wines like Champagne that undergo a second, bubble-producing fermentation. Pet-Nats are made using only the sugar of the grapes and native yeasts, making them a pure reflection of their regions and varieties. But, most important for us, they just taste great, varying from dry and cider-y to happy, alcoholic raspberry soda.

I asked Sarah why she was so crazy about these wines that she had to dedicate an entire week to promote them. (Note: she does promote and drink Pet-Nat year-round.) Here’s what she had to say:

Pétillant Naturel, more fondly known as Pet-Nat or some variation thereof, captured my heart because it is a wine that seems created solely for fun. Pet-Nat can have nuance of flavor and is certainly discussion-worthy – particularly because it is not terribly simple to make – but the best part of the wines is how easy and delightful they are to drink. Many have softer bubbles than those sparkling wines produced using the traditional method, and there is a tendency towards a touch of residual sugar that makes Pet-Nat a bit like the alcoholic soda of my dreams.

pet-natThis focus on fun drinking is part of what prompted Vine Wine to start Pet-Nat Week in 2012. I am the store’s buyer, and when I came on found that Vine Wine’s owner, Talitha Whidbee, and I share a love of pet-nat. So, to kick off the first official week of summer, we organized a series of tastings featuring only pétillant naturel sparkling wines. Vine Wine will be continuing the fun-filled summer boozefest this year in the last week of June, expanding it to include more events and other retailers and restaurants. We want our friends and customers to have a chance to see that wine doesn’t have to be serious all of the time; wine is meant to be enjoyed and shared.

Naturally, I had to have some picks. I left the store with a bottle of 25 Reasons, made by Salinia Wine Company. It’s a Sauvignon Blanc and the grapes spend a long time in contact with the juice (14 days) which gives it extra flavor and texture. The picks:

Mosse Moussamoussettes –  A perennial favorite, just back in at Vine Wine and we can’t stop drinking it. All orange blossoms and fresh-picked strawberries with a hint of sweetness. Advanced warning: the 750 is single-serving sized.

Les Capriades Pièges à Filles Blanc – Yes, I am totally trapped by this off-dry white pet-nat from the Loire, especially in magnum. Crabapple and apple peels and tiny, happy bubbles bring all the girls to the yard. And the boys. And everyone. Because this is delicious.

And the Salinia 25 Reasons, obviously! Because who doesn’t like alcoholic Fresca.

Bonus review from Jennifer Schneider, who enjoyed this bottle with me:

Take One: Because Jameson is not a simple man [Ed. note: True.], and because he can never just give me what I want [Ed. note: Umm....], I asked for a Fresca with a sock in it and he gave me a glass of pet-nat. As ever, the result was better then the original desire. [Ed. Note: Phew. And, aww....]

The Fresca flavor is a powerful touchstone for the 25 Reasons. And while no socks were added in the process of creating this wine, the Salinia certainly has some funky notes. Not in a soiled clothing way, but more like a yeasty, fermenting sourdough. So you’ve got this crazy interplay of crisp citrus notes and earthy undertones. But do not be dissuaded by earth, dirt, and soil. The 25 Reasons is a porch-pounder extraordinaire. And, as Jennifer points out in her second take on the Salinia, it shares something in common with some of the most famous and distinct Belgian ales:

Take Two: After going on a lambic beer binge–loving the weird, wild, dusty-sour notes of guezes–Jameson surprised me with a complex and accessible glass of pet-nat. The taste changed from glass to glass as the wine changed temperature and fizziness. It’s an exciting wine to drink that seems like a hybrid for fancy beer drinkers.

Oh, and why is it called “25 Reasons”? Because there are 25 ounces in each bottle. And, be warned, you may consider all 25 Reasons in one sitting.

Top image from The Natural Process Alliance.

A Review of Red Obsession: A Documentary about China and Bordeaux Wine

Posted on: March 27th, 2013 by Jameson

red obsession china bordeaux

The documentary Red Obsession concerns one of the most talked-about topics in the wine business: the rise of China in the international market and its penchant for top-flight Bordeaux. These are wines costing thousands of dollars per bottle, and being snapped up at headline-producing rates. The title of the documentary, with its play on red wine and Communist (“Red”) China, struck me as hinting at some kind of sensational take on the story. And while a quote from Napoleon about sleeping dragons awakening is trotted out, there is perspective from all parties involved in this story to attempt to elevate and illustrate the topic beyond an East vs. West dichotomy. But you can’t help but see China’s rise in the Bordeaux market elicit from some European merchants and winery representatives feelings ranging from befuddlement to disdain. (For a response to my concerns, read my interview with Warwick Ross, Red Obsession’s Producer/Co-Director/Co-Writer.)

The film starts with about a 20 minute overview of the majesty of Bordeaux, which will be a useful introduction for Bordeaux neophytes. It illustrates the prestige, history, and money that surrounds the top wines of Bordeaux. (A little lengthy for me, as I was anxious to get to China. And it screened with a touch of a “Discover Bordeaux” tourist teaser rather than a documentary. But it does set the stage, and don’t you want to feel invested (emotionally), if not enticed, by the subject at hand?) The highlight of this first part of the film is unquestionably Christian Moueix of Chateau Petrus. He is a quote machine. It’s refreshing to hear the pleasure he takes in enjoying wine: “I’m not a great taster, I’m a great drinker.” He backs up this assertion by stating he just had lunch with 7 people and they drank 3 magnums of wine. (Note to Christian: I am free for lunch.)

Before we get to China, there is a brief stop in Hong Kong, where the WineFuture 2011 event was held. The star of the show is Robert Parker Jr.: king of all wine critics, founder of the Wine Advocate, and whose ratings of Bordeaux vintages and bottles often set market prices. This scene is astonishing as you get a glimpse of Parker’s celebrity in Asia. When the doors open to the event, people are sprinting in to get to a table. Parker is inundated with hundreds of people taking his picture and clamoring for his autograph. Comparisons to a rock star would not be far-fetched.

Even more astonishing is the rise of prices for the top Bordeauxs (known as the “First Growths“): Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Latour, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Haut-Brion, and Chateau Mouton Rothschild. There has been a 1000% rise in the price of these wines in the last 10 years. The 2009 vintage was heralded as one of the best ever, and prices soared. The 2010 vintage, equal or greater in estimation than 2009, ushered in a 40% price increase over the already astronomical 2009s.

Red Obsession continues with sex toys and a $50,000 bottle of wine

The Corner of Thinkable and Drinkable: 3 Views of Frasca and Scarpetta

Posted on: March 25th, 2013 by Jameson

frasca and scarpetta

Last year I attended a very memorable lunch at Seattle’s The Coterie Room featuring the food of Frasca and the wines of Scarpetta. (Check out the recap.) Restaurant and winery owners Bobby Stuckey (the sommelier) and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson (the chef) held court, both equally entertaining and inspiring.

So it was with great pleasure that I recently read a writeup of the same event in San Francisco by Elaine of Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews. And her post led me to a recap of the LA event from Whitney of Brunellos Have More Fun. Both blogs are well-worth your wine-centric time and interest. Peruse:

The Punk Rock, Cross Country Running, Cool Kids Club of Friuli Lovers: aka. Scarpetta

The Frasca Boys

You’ll note that both Elaine and Whitney have a lot of style and personality when it comes to words and images, delivered with a  unique voice and perspective.

Oh, and “The Corner of Thinkable and Drinkable“? I wish I could lay claim to this phrase, which aptly describes where the wines of Scarpetta will meet you. (The credit goes to one of Bobby’s sommeliers at Frasca.) Incidentally, this quote is in both Elaine and Whitney’s post. I guess I was in the bathroom when Bobby uttered it.

Now excuse me while I see if I can move to the intersection of Thinkable Boulevard and Drinkable Way.

Discovering Brazilian Sparkling Wine in New York

Posted on: March 21st, 2013 by Jameson
Brazilian sparkling wine

Construction of the Flatiron Building in New York City, 1902. This is one of my favorite buildings in the world.

Confession: I’ve never had a wine from Brazil, let alone a Brazilian sparkling wine. But, thanks to a blogger event sponsored by Snooth, I am off to New York for a weekend of seminars, as well as to attend the People’s Voice Wine Awards Grand Tasting. Besides getting to know the wines of Brazil, I’ll be focusing on wines from:

  • Scarpa (a producer in Piedmont, Italy)
  • Oregon
  • Ribera del Duero
  • Italy (white wines)
  • Austria
  • South Africa
  • Rioja

But as a sparkling wine fan(atic), I have to say that Brazil caught my eye. Here’s what my program has to say:

Brazil is a new player in the U.S. wine marketplace. But with a history reaching back to the mid 19th century and deep Italian roots, the Brazilian wine industry actually has many parallels with that of California. Terroir and climate, on the other hand, make for drastically different wines. Brazil excels with Sparkling wines, Moscato and Method Champenoise in particular, steely Chardonnay, and ripe, yet focused Merlot—wines that are ready to make a statement.

I look forward to sharing some Brazilian sparkling wine discoveries. And there will be a return to Vine Wine to complete the Pet-Nat journey.

 Flatiron image courtesy Recuerdos de Pandora.