Overlooked/Underrated: Godello

Posted on: May 9th, 2020 by

My latest missive for VinePair takes a look at a white wine grape, Godello. Its home is Galicia, on the northwest coast of Spain. I’ve got the story behind the grape’s preservation, its more familiar friend, and five bottles to check out. Have a look:

Godello vines at Bodgeas Godeval

vines at Bodgeas Godeval / photo courtesy Valkyrie Selections

Why Chardonnay Fans Should Consider Godello

You’ve probably heard of the former grape (yeah, duh/doy), which I hope will lead you to the latter. Spoiler alert: the trio of experts I talked to on the importer/somm side all mentioned the Big C white grape when queried about a comp.

Reflecting on this specific question, I had a touch of an existential (wine) crisis/hand-wringing episode:

In hindsight, should I feel conflicted touting a grape’s distinctiveness yet craving a familiar touchstone? Based on the responses, it strikes me as a prescient way to encourage drinkers to opt for Godello. The goal being to define it on its own terms: Godello for Godello’s sake.

(Also see my Valpolicella/Pinot Noir comparisons.)

Anyway, this has passed and I’m good. (For now.)

Finally have a look at the Xagoaza Monastery and Church of San Miguel, restored by Bodegas Godeval and about 300 feet from the new winery.

Monastery at Bodegas Godeval, a notable producer of Godello.

image via Bodgas Godeval

What’s a wine grape you think is overlooked and underrated? Let me know in the comments. I’ll be curious to see if the grape is something I’ve covered before, and it may serve as a reminder to take another look. And, hey, even famous grapes can seem to fall by the wayside. Or, probably more accurately, fall out of fashion for a small subset of highly opinionated wine drinkers. (Like me.)

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