Jameson Fink

Northern Rhone White Wines: Reflecting on the Unforgettable

Posted on: May 23rd, 2013 by Jameson

Looking down the barrel of a wine.

How had I neglected Northern Rhone white wines? I guess I was too busy penning love letters to the Loire Valley further up north in France. But the region from Vienne south to Valence (map) is home to some of my favorite fancy white wines ever. My reflection and rediscovery started while on a trip sponsored by Wines of France. It was a journey full of epic wine geek moments, beginning in Beaujolais with apron-modeling and continuing on with raisins and pigs in bow ties.

Our first stop in the Northern Rhone, and where I took this photo of me, was at Yann Chave. The barrel was set up this way so you could turn on a light and see what was going on inside, fermentation-wise. Watch the magic! Or, in this case, take a selfie. We started our visit by tasting a wine from the Crozes-Hermitage region (the 2012 Yann Chave Crozes-Hermitage Blanc), a white made from a blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Roussane grapes. For a wine with no oak it had plenty of richness, balanced by freshness and a lively character. The perfect breakfast white wine. (Full disclosure: I had solids for breakfast back at the hotel.)

We then cruised on down the town of Tain L’Hermitage, where I was transfixed by this town square sculpture:

I should also have looked up, as I would have been mesmerized by the iconic vineyards of Hermitage, a very famous spot for grapes and one of those places I could now cross off my vineyard nerd list. Let’s let some pictures do the talking, which I snapped after a fantastic lunch at the Chapoutier winery. Slideshow time:

Created with flickr slideshow.I was a little woozy and dazed from the sheer enormity of Hermitage, the hot sun beating down on my balding dome, and the flush of a spectacular lunchtime wine: the 2010 Ferraton St. Joseph Blanc “Les Olivieres”. It’s a blend of half Marsanne, half Roussanne, and does see some time in oak barrel. Wowzers. Golden and rich. And as it warmed up a bit it became a little leaner, creamy and silky, wrapped up with a delicate final bow to the taste buds. Crazy good; it’s a wine that insists you push aside the spit bucket and finish. And probably have a splash more. (Full disclosure: I did both.)

Though the Northern Rhone region is justifiably famous for its Syrah, the white wines are often stunning as well. And geez, I didn’t even cover Condrieu, where the best Viognier in the world is made! Luckily, before our journey was over we got to enjoy a Condrieu from Chapoutier. (I picked up the nickname “wine-whisperer” on this trip because I seemed to know for what wines to ask for that were a must-try. Condrieu was high on that list.)

So if you’re lacking in experience with Northern Rhone white wines made from Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier, I hope this missive will inspire you to bridge that gap.

Hungry For Words: A Food Writing Workshop With Kathleen Flinn

Posted on: May 21st, 2013 by Jameson

I thought I’d celebrate my nomination in the Best Writing on a Wine Blog category for the 2013 Wine Blog Awards with a post about…writing about food? Well, it’s about writing, and applicable to wine writers and writers in general. (See all the nominees and vote; you have until May 24th at 11:59PM.)

Kathleen Flinn is a friend and accomplished author. Her past books include The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry and The Kitchen Counter Cooking School. Look for the upcoming Burnt Toast Makes You Sing Good, too. And if that wasn’t enough, she also wants to help you Cook Fearless. Kathleen even encouraged me to Draw Fearless. (Exactly why in the following paragraph.) I trust Elaine at Hawk Wakawaka Wine Reviews, who creates charming and informative wine-related illustrations and comics (nominated in three categories, congratulations!), is not trembling in fear upon viewing my artistic prowess.

Kathleen invited me to sit in on the Sunday portion of her Hungry for Words food writing workshop at Seattle’s Richard Hugo House. One of the key things I learned is not to worry about your drawing acumen and use storyboarding to help show that “good writing happens in scenes”. Taking a page (board?) from her filmmaker friend, Diedre Timmons, Kathleen encouraged us to storyboard a scene we wanted to recount; it’s a great way to fight writer’s block as well as make sure you don’t miss certain details.

In the legal pad-scribbled instance above, I recall getting a ride up a road to the top of a vineyard in Portugal’s Douro region. I actually wrote about it before, but thought I would see what happened when I storyboarded the scene and wrote it again. Here’s Take II:

Post-ride at the top. I was blue, then white, and, finally, greener than my shoes.

I hopped into winemaker Luís Patrão’s car and we drove off to the top of the vineyards at Quinta dos Murcas. The dirt road was on of those extremely narrow roads where on one side you had an imposing rock face, the other side nothing but sheer cliff that would swiftly carry you to the river below. The winemaker had a particularly troubling (to me) way of navigating blind corners. Instead of slowing down (and we were going quite fast), he would honk his horn to alert oncoming drivers as we hugged the curve with little margin for error.

While the stinging guitar of B.B. King played in the background, I was feeling the blues and looking quite white. I couldn’t help but think, “What if another car is descending on the other side of that blind curve? And they employ the same strategy for warning oncoming traffic as we had?” It would be four honks followed by a head-on collision and a very long tumble to the Douro River. Somehow I felt that if I clinged tightly enough to the handle above the passenger-side window, everything would be ok.

Storyboarding helped me recall and illustrate (with words) specific moments of an event that happened almost a year ago. With almost the same clarity and detail (plus a few extra wrinkles) as when it was fresh in my brain. I highly recommend this technique, and it was just the tip of the iceberg as far as what I learned that day at Hungry for Words. And maybe next year I’ll be nominated for Worst Original Illustration in a Wine Blog. I know I’ve got a puncher’s chance in that one, for sure.

Again, thanks to Kathleen for letting me join the class for a day. And a big thanks to all the fellow writers in attendance; they brought experience, ideas, and a collaborative spirit to the table.

Tags: 2013 wine blogger awards, food writing workshop, hungry for words
Posted in portugal, writing | No Comments »

2012 Raisins Gaulois: Just Add an Ice Bucket

Posted on: May 17th, 2013 by Jameson

What, red wine in the summer? From the rosé freak? Yes, when it’s the 2012 Raisins Gaulois. Created in Beaujolais at the legendary Domaine Marcel Lapierre, it’s a light and lively red wine that is a perfect partner for an ice bucket. I’m not saying cool it down to arctic temperatures, but with a nice chill you’ll find this a worthy outdoor companion.

Technically, the 2012 Raisins Gaulois is not a Beaujolais. It’s classified as a “Vin de France” because of the youthful age of the vines. It’s definitely not from the old gnarly ones pictured, but I couldn’t resist including a photo of these stoic, somewhat haunting, Gamay vines. (I had the pleasure/honor of visiting Beaujolais thanks to a trip sponsored by Wines of France.)

You can read the full story on Foodista. I also give a shout-out to Lapierre’s Morgon; which is something to consider for your cellar if you are a fan of elegant reds like Pinot Noir. Now, I know Gamay (the grape of Beaujolais) is not Pinot Noir. But considering prices for collectable, age-worthy Pinot Noir, I’d stock up on Beaujolais from the top sites, which are called the “Crus”. And Morgon is one of the best of them.

No, this is not a clip-on bow tie. How dare you!

So what’s a great food pairing with the 2012 Raisins Gaulois? I’d say cured meats. Especially those that come wrapped up in this paper from an indoor market in Villefranche-sur-Saône. Who can resist a charcuterie-peddling pig in a bow tie? And if anthropomorphized swine is not your thing, vegetarians and vegans, rejoice! For this cool Gamay would be delightful with an assortment of grilled vegetables.

So now that you’re over the shock of me equating summer with something besides rosé, get ready for more earth-shattering revelations. Well, maybe that a little too sensationalistic. How about mild surprises regarding wine? Yeah, not as exciting.

[More adventures in Beaujolais, including apron-modeling.]

Tags: 2012 Raisins Gaulois, cru beaujolais, domaine marcel lapierre
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Wine Anxiety, Anti-Juiciness, and Wanton Vintage Disregard

Posted on: May 13th, 2013 by Jameson

I wouldn’t characterize my friend Amy Pennington as having wine anxiety. First of all, I’m no doctor/sommelier; it’s probably illegal for me to make such a diagnosis. But she certainly is able to articulate questions and concerns that enthusiastic, regular wine drinkers have when they are confronted with miles of shelves crammed with wine. Which is why I asked her to pilot the ship for an episode of my Wine Without Worry podcast, and grill me about wine.

First, a bit about Amy. She’s an author, cook, and urban farmer who has written two books (Urban Pantry and Apartment Gardening) that all city-dwelling folks should own. Maximize the potential of your cramped dwelling and start eating better on a regular basis! Amy has even been rolling out a new ebook a month (!), and will continue to do so for the rest of 2013, in a series called Fresh Pantry. Each ebook has a laser- like focus on one ingredient, like carrots, rhubarb, or berries. Go forth and buy everything!

Amy’s a good friend and one of my favorite people in the whole world. And as we were chatting over the course of the podcast, I was able to glean some valuable advice if you are going to dinner at her place:

DO: Bring a Pinot Noir, come prepared to make wine spritzers, or tote a yeasty Champagne.
DON’T: Bring “berrylicious, juicy shit”, insipid Prosecco, or Trader Joe’s plonk. (Ed note: Amy is really not this difficult. And here’s a non-plonky TJ’s wine.)

Amy also coaxes out from me some candid thoughts about wine labels, vintages, and food and wine pairing. I’ll give you a sneak preview of my thoughts on one of these issues: vintages. I don’t want to add to people’s worry by having them memorize vintage charts for numerous wine regions in multiple countries. For wine geeks and collectors discussing the merits of the fanciest wines from the most specific of sites, sure, vintage is important. And cataclysmic events (heat waves, hail storms, torrential rains, locusts, etc.) can have a noticeable impact. But for daily drinkers, science and technology have come so far in regard to what happens in the vineyard and the winery that there is typically not wild variation from year-to-year. Focus on enjoyment first.

And, as a bonus, I spend five minutes with Henri Schock, National Account Executive for True Fabrications, a company specializing in wine accessories. You’ll find me confessing to corkscrew anxiety as well as explaining when and why I like my red wines chilled.

Wine Without Worry Episode 10 on iTunes: Facing Wine Anxiety: Shelves, Shops, Pairings, and Vintages

No iTunes? No problem. Visit Web Talk Radio.

Big & Juicy photo courtesy Sam Howzit.

Tags: amy pennington, true fabrications, wine anxiety, wine podcast, Wine Without Worry
Posted in podcast | 1 Comment »

Wine on Airlines II: Sparkling Wine Not Bringing Me Down

Posted on: May 9th, 2013 by Jameson

I previously had a fine experience when it came to wine on airlines, courtesy of a cheerful glass of a French Vermentino as well as a sparkling wine, Henkell Trocken, on Lufthansa. (Details with a side of Will Ferrell and Graham Greene.) And now, armed with the knowledge to ask for sparkling wine if I don’t see it on the cart (thanks, Kelly Magyarics), I would make sure to speak up during my next in-flight beverage time. So when heading out from Seattle to Frankfurt (and ultimately Lyon for a Beaujolais to Chateauneuf-du-Page trip with Wines of France, where I drank Beaujolais Blanc while wearing an apron) I seized the opportunity to enjoy a sparkling wine from the Henkell family, Menger-Krug.

I didn’t catch which bottle it was, and didn’t want to be that guy asking to see the bottle while getting death stares from dozens of people ready for a couple drinks and a strong desire to pass out over the Atlantic and wake up in Germany, but it had extra richness and was a bit toasty-flavored and golden-colored. A nice contrast to the light-and-lively Henkell Trocken.

Paris I Love You But You're Bringing Me Down

No, I don’t have a damn Kindle.

I had a very entertaining and appropriate book to read while drinking that Menger-Krug, too. Though I wasn’t going to be in Paris save a cameo at the airport, I found this book at the library before I departed: Paris, I Love You But You’re Bringing Me Down by Rosecrans Baldwin. It’s the story of an American working (for an ad agency) and living in Paris for a spell. But this is no flowery, everything is amazing-style fluff. It’s a candid look at the pros and cons of the expat lifestyle. Paris turns out to be full of charm, confusion, agony, lust, history, good and bad food, puzzling bureaucracy, and pedal-powered, late-night charm. Also: smoking and wine.

Baldwin is funny, observant, and perceptive as hell as he navigates the people (and city) of Paris while at work and leisure. Anyone who has a mildly torturous relationship with a large urban area will relate to Paris, I Love You But You’re Bringing Me Down. You love your city (some days more than others, some days a bit less) for its faults, quirks, highlights as well as its unique spirit, landscape, people, and places.

The title on the book is so…noticeable, I was wondering if any English-reading Parisians were on the flight and thinking, who the hell is this guy and what the hell is that book about? Or, to look at it in a more magnanimous manner, it certainly could be a good conversation starter. While drinking wine. Trapped on an airplane for eight hours.

Tags: menger krug, Paris I love you but you're bringing me down, Rosecrans Baldwin, wine on airlines
Posted in books, sparkling wine, wine on airlines | 2 Comments »

Gluten-Free Cheese Straws and Sparkling Rosé Forever

Posted on: May 6th, 2013 by Jameson

I’m not sure I should have titled this post “Gluten-Free Cheese Straws and Sparkling Rosé Forever.” Really, it was just the “Gluten-Free” part I was concerned with. Because these cheese straws and cheese crackers are so good that there’s no need to compartmentalize them. Good food is good food, period. They just happen to be gluten-free and delicious. Can I take some credit for their deliciousness? I mean, I do have proof that I helped out:

Picture (of) me rollin’.

Yes, I did some rolling. But all culinary praise must go to my wonderful and talented host for this baking-and-wine afternoon excursion: Jeanne Sauvage. She’s the author of Gluten-Free Baking for the Holidays; that’s where you can find the recipe for these cheese straws and crackers. (I am a firm believer that a sunny Wednesday in Seattle counts as a holiday. Especially when you have delicious cheese crackers and sparkling wine, no? Hell, every day you bake is a holiday!) And after you pick up a copy of Jeanne’s book (and a couple dozen to give away as gifts), make sure to bookmark her blog, Art of Gluten-Free Baking.

Also, I’ve kind of developed a thing for aprons. I certainly didn’t plan that two out of the last four posts would include photos of me in an apron. But I’m damn glad it worked out that way. When Jeanne asked me if I wanted an apron, my answer was, “Do you have to ask?!?”

Once our baking was done it was time to head out into the garden and enjoy the fruits (cheeses?) of our labor. And have some dang wine! I must say, I was mightily impressed with the Champagne coupes Jeanne provided. I am not immune to the charms of a fancy, ornate drinking vessel.

So what sparkling rosé did I select to enjoy in all that sunshine? The Tenuta Col Sandago. Hailing from the Veneto region of Northern Italy, this wine is most notable for being made from an unusual grape: Wildbacher. It’s an Austrian import that, in this case, makes an elegant, pretty rosé that pairs wonderfully with the crunchy, salty, cheesy straws and crackers.

About the only thing I love as much as the Tenuta Col Sandago is this new (to me) app for the iPhone, Over. It allows you to add text (or “typography” as Over calls it) to your photos. It’s super-easy to use and super-addictive. I probably (ok, definitely) went a little overboard with this post, but I am in the honeymoon phase with Over. Which could last forever. Or, forOver.

And be sure to read Jeanne’s recap of our sparkling afternoon.

Tags: gluten free baking, gluten free cheese straws, tenuta col sandago
Posted in gluten free, sparkling wine | 5 Comments »

What Is Madeira? A Sweet Wine Like No Other

Posted on: May 3rd, 2013 by Jameson

If you want to know the answer to the question, “What is Madeira?”, who better to ask than the Chris Blandy, CEO of the Madeira Wine Company? Chris previously helped me understand why Madeira was so popular in Colonial America. But he told me so much more that I had share the rest. So to find out more about this sweet wine produced on an island about 500 miles from the African coast and 1000 miles from the Portuguese coast (map), please enjoy this Q&A between myself and Chris:

What makes Madeira distinct from all other sweet wines?

Madeira is fortified with vinic alcohol (grape alcohol) at 97º rather than grape brandy as used in Port. Madeira’s aging process is unique as we promote the heating of wine by storing the barrels high up in the attics of our lodges in the centre of Funchal, where the natural ambient temperature averages 25ºC/77ºF.

The wines’ acidity is a key factor as whilst our richest wines can have up to 130 g/l of residual sugar, the underlying natural acidity gives the wine a lively freshness. The acidity, sourced from the rich volcanic soil on the island, gives structure to the wine to allow it to age through this heating process.

Talk about the challenges of producing Madeira in regards to the vineyards and climate.

Today, we work with approximately 600 farmers with an average size of vineyard of 1,000 m2 or 0.25 acres, all located in different areas of the island. We contract 4 agents in strategic villages to act as our representatives, passing messages and ensuring our quality control is adhered to. Nowadays access to most parts of the island is relatively easy, but, in the past, it would take us the whole day to visit 2 or 3 farmers on the northwest [part] of the island. Many times, we were forced to spend the night in these small villages to avoid the long drive home and out again the next day. Development and social change have meant that there is pressure to maintain these vineyards. The average age of farmer is high and their children are looking for opportunities in the city or abroad. We are working hard with our farmers to ensure that the tradition is continued, by giving them and their family support throughout the year.

As the island benefits from 7 different micro-climates, one result from climate change, in my opinion, will be the redefinition of growing areas for the varietals and, in the future, we may see more vineyards planted higher up the mountains where the temperature is cooler. In the past, the family has never owned vineyards, with the exception of a small property in the north in the 80s. In 2012, we decided to take a more proactive approach to secure the continued production of the white varietals, especially Sercial, Verdelho, and Malmsey, by planting 8 hectares/20 acres of vineyard in the north and in the south. We have done this for the long term view of potential growth of sales in these varieties, to allow us to understand better the climate change impact on the varietals through research together with the Madeira institute, and also to secure production for the next generation.

Can it be a dry wine as well?

Sercial, a varietal grown either at 800 metres on the warmer south of the island, or by the sea on the cooler north, produces the driest style of Madeira, with RS levels at around 50 g/l.

What are your favorite dessert pairings with Madeira? [Ed note: Bual and Malmsey are grapes used in Madeira production. Alvada is a proprietary blend of Bual and Malmsey grapes.]

10 year old Bual with Pecan Pie or apple crumble.
5 year old Alvada with dark chocolate fondant
10 year old Malmsey with sticky toffee pudding, roasted pears, or chocolate semifreddo

Drinking madeira with…sushi!?!

Tags: chris blandy, madeira wine company, what is madeira
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Wine Tasting Events: I Reach My Threshold at 58 Wines

Posted on: May 1st, 2013 by Jameson

Though I’ve attended numerous (hundreds of) wine tasting events, I still find they can be punishing to you palate. And normally requires a recovery beer afterward, which, incidentally, will be one of the most delicious beers you will ever drink. But why is 58 my limit? Does the 59th wine send me over the edge? To the dentist? Gum surgeon?

This is no arbitrary number. I arrived at it after tasting 58 Washington Syrahs in my capacity as a judge for a wine event in Seattle, called “Sexy Syrah“. (Looking at my stained teeth after my judging duties were completed, I will confess to feeling low levels of sexiness.) So how do you survive sampling so many wines? What is a good strategy for tasting wines at an event you paid good money to attend? Do you follow the all-you-can-eat buffet strategy? (“Damnit, I paid for all these wines and I’m getting my money’s worth and then some, even if they have to drag me out of here.”)

Fortunately, I have a friend who tastes wine in a most thoughtful and methodical manner; someone who can offer advice to wine lovers and provide a window into how a wine critic evaluates his or her subject. He’s Sean Sullivan, creator of the invaluable Washington Wine Report as well as a Contributing Editor to Wine Enthusiast Magazine. He’s also the latest guest on my Wine Without Worry podcast.

After chatting about wine tasting, we move on to (naturally) talk a bit about Washington wine. I ask Sean if Washington has a signature grape. The candidates?

Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon
Syrah
Riesling
Picpoul (joking…or am I?)

You’ll have to listen to the podcast to find out Sean’s answer. And since this episode focuses heavily on wine tasting, I thought it would be fun to bring a wine for Sean to try blind. My intent was not to bring some crazy, esoteric wine that no one in their right mind would ever be able to identify. I take no shameful pride in such parlor tricks! Instead, since we were taping this episode on my birthday (I really know how to celebrate, huh?), I picked out a wine from my stash that I really wanted to drink: the 2002 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon.

Love. This. Wine.

I’ve long been a fan of Mount Eden Vineyards, located in California’s Santa Cruz Mountains. Not only do they make great Cabernet, but also fantastic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. All three are some of the best examples of each grape you’ll find in California. The 2002 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon met and exceeded my lofty expectations. A very smooth and elegant red, it was gorgeous joy to drink. And quite youthful; I would never have guessed it was 10+ years old based on both the color and the flavor. It has a long life ahead of it. Thank God I have another bottle. Hear all about it:

Wine Without Worry Episode 9 on iTunes: How to Survive Tasting 58 Wines in One Evening

“58″ photo courtesy roland.

Tags: mount eden vineyards cabernet, santa cruz mountains, washington wine industry, washington wine report, Wine Without Worry
Posted in podcast | 10 Comments »

The Secret Lives of Baked Goods Lets You Have Your History and Eat It, Too

Posted on: April 29th, 2013 by Jameson

Receiving and reading a preview copy of The Secret Lives of Baked Goods: Sweet Stories & Recipes for America’s Favorite Desserts by Jessie Oleson Moore, creator of the ultra-sweet and magical CakeSpy.com, brought me back to my days as a graduate student at Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff. Sure, while getting a M.A. in History, I got cozy with words like hegemonic, did a ton of reading, thinking, and writing, had inspiring and supportive professors, and wrote a fine thesis about a compelling topic. But did I ever get study the history behind some of our most beloved desserts? I most certainly did not! Where was my chance to move on to pursue the PhD(essert) of my dreams?

Fortunately with Jessie’s second book, my bitterness has turned into sweetness. While not a history textbook, The Secret Lives of Baked Goods is full of surprising facts and intriguing details behind everything from Baked Alaska to Whoopie Pies. This is where (ha ha) I say something like, “Don’t worry, there won’t be a quiz.” But there will be! And here it is. I made it True/False so you’ve got a 50/50 chance of being correct. (You’re welcome.)

Boston Cream Pie is a cake. (T/F)
German chocolate cake is from Germany. (T/F)
“Oily cakes” are another name for doughnuts. (T/F)
Red Velvet Cake was named for an exotic dancer. (T/F)
The Crab Cake is Maryland’s best cake. (T/F)

(OK, that last one is subject to opinion; please answer in essay form.)

If all that reading and test-taking about dessert is stimulating your sweet tooth, fear not, as a recipe follows each delicious story. You might also find, as in my case, becoming a bit curious about the research and legwork that went into illustrating the lore of desserts. Fortunately, I was able to ask Jessie about the process. Here are my queries and her responses:

What, you’ve never seen a unicorn sitting cross-legged on a stool eating a banana?

What was one baked good that had a particularly surprising, unexpected secret life?

One of my favorites is the story of German Chocolate Cake, which is not in fact German at all (Ed. note: Aha! T/F Question #2 answered)–it’s named for Sam German, inventor of German’s Sweet Baking Chocolate. It was originally called German’s Chocolate Cake, but through the years the possessive was dropped, giving the cake an air of European ancestry. But even more interesting? Sam German invented the chocolate a good hundred years before the cake became popular. What a sweet legacy that he never even knew about!

Was there “one that got away”? A baked good whose history, no matter how much sleuthing and spying, remained murky or vague?

One that really remained murky regardless of my seeking was the Mexican Wedding Cake (or Russian Teacake; or Snowball; or a zillion other names, it seems). While it’s a sweet that is popular in many different cultures, getting to the true root of it proved elusive and it was eventually cut from the book. Moreover, though, researching the history of baked goods is almost like playing a game of telephone. Many of these histories are anecdotal at best, passed on and amended and elaborated upon throughout the years. I tried not to get too caught up in this and instead embraced the fun, gossipy side of the stories.

Should I return to school in order to pursue a PhD in the History of Desserts? Will you be on my PhD committee?

Only if your PhD is a Doctorate of Delicious! My book will be a fantastic tool on your journey of pastry lifelong learning. The best part? Defending your thesis is a piece of cake. Literally.

What historical sweet wine pairs with this sweet history? Read about Madeira!

Tags: cakespy book, history of madeira, madeira wine company, the secret lives of baked goods
Posted in books, dessert wine | 6 Comments »

Underrated: Aprons and Beaujolais Blanc

Posted on: April 24th, 2013 by Jameson

Hand me an apron and a glass of Beaujolais Blanc! Aren’t you looking for a Chardonnay made in a refreshing, non-outrageous style? While on a trip sponsored by Wines of France, with a three-night stop in Beaujolais, I was a little surprised that the first two out of three wines I enjoyed from this storied wine region where white. And that I’d be sporting an apron. What the hell was going on?!?

First, let me explain a little about Beaujolais (map). You may only be aware of this part of France because of its most well-known export: Beaujolais Nouveau. It’s a young, fresh wine made (like all red wines designated as Beaujolais) from the Gamay grape, quickly bottled after the fall harvest, and shipped all over the world to enjoy by Nouveau’s official release on the third Thursday of each November. But there is a whole world of Beaujolais that deserves your attention year-round. Let’s focus on the white wine, and how I came to be showcasing this snazzy apron.

Dang, a scarf and a produce basket? Respect.

The first Beaujolais Blanc I drank was made by a winery that also produces a sparkling Gamay (called FRV100) that is outrageously brunchtastic: Terres Dorrés. A surprisingly richer style of Chardonnay (though certainly not approaching over-the-top-ness), it could handle heartier seafood dishes or a roast chicken. The Terres Dorrés certainly warmed me up for the next day’s adventure.

Our full-day exploration of Beaujolais began with a morning visit to an indoor market in Villefranche-sur-Saône followed by a cooking class. Our guide and instructor? Chef Frederick Vallet. He’s the Fred of “La Cuisine de Fred” and provider of the apron. He even came prepared with his own basket for market shopping. (When I go to the farmers market I have some lame bag. I gotta step up my game.)

We didn’t pick up asparagus or artichokes, but lighter, unoaked versions of Beaujolais Blanc can handle this supposed vegetable-based Murderer’s Row of wine pairing.

These vegetables are not being difficult with your white wine.

A great example of an easy-drinking, vegetable-loving Beaujolais Blanc was served at La Cuisine de Fred: The Domaine Chaselay Terroir de Châtillon. It was an apple-y-tasting delight. How does something made from grapes taste like an apple? I don’t know; I chalked it up to the magic and mystery of wine, of which I am a fan.

I was pleased to find out that within an area best best known for red wine, Beaujolais is quietly producing Chardonnay worthy of your attention. Similar to the easy-going charm of the region, Beaujolais Blanc has an unfussy and straightforward style. The unexpected and surprising, which represent a substantial part of the magical mysteriousness* of wine, are what keep us going down the road of further knowledge and better drinking.

*I just realized this sounds like the name of a Beatles album.

Tags: beaujolais blanc, la cuisine de fred, Villefranche surSaône market, wine for aparagus
Posted in Beaujolais | No Comments »